Mario Testino: ‘I See Fashion Photography as a Business’
Diana, Princess of Wales for Vanity Fair 1997 | Photo: Mario Testino
In 1995, Testino photographed an almost makeup-free Madonna for a Versace campaign, an aesthetic departure from the done-up look of the time. Unlike his previous commercial work, the widely distributed ads prominently featured his last name alongside those of Versace and Madonna, helping to turn him into a well-known brand. “I realised that a beautiful photograph is worth so much. But a beautiful photograph with a name is worth more,” said Testino.
Madonna for Atelier Versace 1995 | Photo: Mario Testino
Testino’s collaboration with then Gucci designer Tom Ford and stylist Carine Roitfeld defined the fashion aesthetic of the time. Some of his Gucci images included fellow VOICES speaker Amber Valletta, but none were as controversial as the 2003 Gucci campaign starring Estonian model Carmen Kass holding her underwear aside to expose “G” (for Gucci) shaved into her pubic hair, while a man kneels in front of her.
Gucci Spring/Summer 2003 advertising campaign | Photo: Mario Testino
Gucci Autumn/Winter 1995 advertising campaign | Photo: Mario Testino
Indeed, Testino’s collaboration with Roitfeld — who the photographer named, alongside Lucinda Chambers, as one of the editors to most influence his work — shaped his signature style. “She said to me: You’re not English. You’re not American. You’re not Peruvian. You have to go to your essence,” Testino recalled. “I realised that my essence is all about the body… I’m obsessed about the fact that some people can be made so perfect,” he continued, as his images of supermodels Gisele and Kate Moss were presented on-screen.
Kate Moss for British Vogue 2008 | Photo: Mario Testino
Gisele Bundchen for Vanity Fair 2007 | Photo: Mario Testino
Kate Moss for French Vogue 2012 | Photo: Mario Testino
Kate Moss for American Vogue 1999 | Photo: Mario Testino
But Testino said it took much more than beauty alone to become a supermodel. Describing Gigi Hadid, he said: “We spend time with these girls and what does she bring to your life? She brings a lot of energy.”
Gigi Hadid and Zayn Malik for American Vogue 2016 | Photo: Mario Testino
Once resistant to social media, Testino has come to relish the direct digital connection he now has with his audience. Indeed, his photo of an almost-nude Justin Bieber for his ongoing “Towel Series” caused a sensation on Instagram.
Justin Bieber for American Vogue 2015 | Photo: Mario Testino
Taylor Swift for Vanity Fair 2015 | Photo: Mario Testino
The last of the ten images shown on the VOICES stage, depicting three indigenous Peruvian women wearing colourful traditional clothes, was shot during one of Testino’s monthly trips back to Lima to visit his late mother. Those trips helped the photographer to “discover my country again” and helped to spark the idea for MATE, the photographer’s non-profit arts foundation and museum. The project has two primary aims: to house and display Testino’s personal art collection and to act as a platform for Peruvian art, culture and heritage. “Nothing is a given. If I [have] reached this level. I don’t think it’s for me to have more houses, more art, more objects, more clothes,” said Testino. “I think it’s the time to give back to my community, to what Peru gave me to [become] who I am today.”